"This PH level will be a lot closer than dish soap". I dont know, have you used some of these OTC "automotive soaps"? Most are junk.(Kit/Blue coral/Zip Wax just to name a few.
Now I'll tell you my prefered water/soap selection.
Soft water from my home, sent through my DI set up right in to my 90 gallon tank. My soap well I use a brand call "AutoSmart". Wich I might add "claims" to balance the PH levels in "hard water".
Any real detailer will tell you, DI water is the right way, and the only way to wash cars/trucks correctly. Especially in the direct sun. Oh how sweet it is........ DI water is the tickect, hard water you've got to be kiding me, right?
Well, IMO, a "real detailer" wouldn't ever suggest using dish soap on vehicles. But hey, detailing is all about what works for you. Since there isn't any new content being discussed, let's get back to the original subject.
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Well, IMO, a "real detailer" wouldn't ever suggest using dish soap on vehicles. But hey, detailing is all about what works for you. Since there isn't any new content being discussed, let's get back to the original subject.
Dish soup is a method of stripping wax, and IMHO it works just fine. Infact there are polishes out there that would damage the paint faster than any dish soap would......
I beleieve the O.G topic here was elmacho starting from scratch with his vehicles paint. So "elmacho" what you should do is rewash you car/truck with NXT or PB's car wash. Then hit it with the clay bar. I would use the two bucket method as lube. Soapy water in one and clean water in the other(DI) that is. Hard water is for the birds. Next you should choose a good polish. I recomend Color "X" or PB's Polish. After that its up to you, sealer under carnuba, or sealer alone. EX-P under Natty's, or #21 under #26 paste. I know for a fact that either of these combo's work great over a properly preped surface.
Ofcorse the "PH" balanced water would make all the differece in the world........ NOT!
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Solo Cali You seem to be a bit confused regarding what PH is. PH is the measurement of the hydrogen ion concentration in water and is measured on a scale of 0-14 with 0 being very acidic and 14 being very alkaline. Obviously it follows that a PH of 7 would be neutral. This has nothing to do with wether the water is hard of soft, which is a measure of the mineral concentration in water, and as you stated is measured in PPM or parts per million. They are two different things. Most Municipal water systems control both PH and hardness to some extent in an effort to improve water quality, improve the ease of maintenance to their system, and to meet State and Federal regulations.
Solo Cali You seem to be a bit confused regarding what PH is. PH is the measurement of the hydrogen ion concentration in water and is measured on a scale of 0-14 with 0 being very acidic and 14 being very alkaline. Obviously it follows that a PH of 7 would be neutral. This has nothing to do with wether the water is hard of soft, which is a measure of the mineral concentration in water, and as you stated is measured in PPM or parts per million. They are two different things. Most Municipal water systems control both PH and hardness to some extent in an effort to improve water quality, improve the ease of maintenance to their system, and to meet State and Federal regulations.
pogo123, thanks for the insite. As I stated in post #11, it would appier I was a bit confused as I ened the post with a question mark.
So is it your belief that a "car soap" could bring water to a PH of 7 as you state in your post? If so, how is this accomplished with in the chemicals that make up the soap.
pogo123, thanks for the insite. As I stated in post #11, it would appier I was a bit confused as I ened the post with a question mark.
So is it your belief that a "car soap" could bring water to a PH of 7 as you state in your post? If so, how is this accomplished with in the chemicals that make up the soap.
Well, this question got me thinking, and I suspected that the small amount of soap used would not be enough to change the PH, so I tried an experiment. Although I didn't have any Dawn, I had three different car washes and two different dish soaps.
The Products:
My Tap Water - PH = 7.2 Poorboys SSS - Says is PH neutral on bottle - mixed per directions PH = 7.0
Optimum Car Wash - Doesn't mention PH - mixed per directions PH = 6.7
Finish Kare Wash/Wax - Doesn't mention PH - mixed per directions PH = 7.0
Palmolive Dish Soap - Doesn't mention PH - no directions 1oz/gal PH = 6.6
Cascade Dishwasher Soap-Doesn't mention PH-no directions 1oz/gal PH = 8.0
So it appears that the soap does change the PH of the water but it's hard to tell by how much since my water is close to neutral to start with. I wish I had some Dawn to try just to see if it is as caustic as the Cascade is. Besides the PH thing, another disadvantage to dish soap is it's grease and oil cutting ability which will tend to dry out rubber door seals and trim.
This experiment proves two things:
1 - I have too much time on my hands!
2 - My wife now thinks I'm craizer then she thought before!
Poorboys World Products
Poorboy’s has made a name around the show circuit for fantastic products at great prices! Its ever-growing popularity is due to word-of-mouth testimonies from novice detailers through auto enthusiasts about the brilliant results no matter what your level of expertise. You’re going to love Poorboy’s!
Well, this question got me thinking, and I suspected that the small amount of soap used would not be enough to change the PH, so I tried an experiment. Although I didn't have any Dawn, I had three different car washes and two different dish soaps.
The Products:
My Tap Water - PH = 7.2 Poorboys SSS - Says is PH neutral on bottle - mixed per directions PH = 7.0
Optimum Car Wash - Doesn't mention PH - mixed per directions PH = 6.7
Finish Kare Wash/Wax - Doesn't mention PH - mixed per directions PH = 7.0
Palmolive Dish Soap - Doesn't mention PH - no directions 1oz/gal PH = 6.6
Cascade Dishwasher Soap-Doesn't mention PH-no directions 1oz/gal PH = 8.0
So it appears that the soap does change the PH of the water but it's hard to tell by how much since my water is close to neutral to start with. I wish I had some Dawn to try just to see if it is as caustic as the Cascade is. Besides the PH thing, another disadvantage to dish soap is it's grease and oil cutting ability which will tend to dry out rubber door seals and trim.
This experiment proves two things:
1 - I have too much time on my hands!
2 - My wife now thinks I'm craizer then she thought before!
LOL, 1 & 2.
Thank's pogo123.
Poorboys World Products
Poorboy’s has made a name around the show circuit for fantastic products at great prices! Its ever-growing popularity is due to word-of-mouth testimonies from novice detailers through auto enthusiasts about the brilliant results no matter what your level of expertise. You’re going to love Poorboy’s!
Location: Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Canada
Posts: 1,831
Re: Time to clay?
Don't need to wash twice.
If there are streaks, you need to polish by hand (KAIO or a similar chemical polish or paint cleaner), or by machine.
Two ways to clay:
1. While washing. Soap a panel, clay while soapy. Keep the car wet and move quickly. NOt recommended for a first time.
2. a. Wash car.
b. Dry car.
c. Use a Quick Detail Spray (I cut by half with water), spray an area (1/4 hood; half panel, etc., not too big), move the clay back and forth across the surface. Add extra spray if it grabs at all.
d. Wipe the panel with a mf--try not to let the clay lube drip down the side of the car.
e. Only use one side of the clay. Turn the clay dirty side in by folding it and keep one clean side under your hand.
f. Repeat or spot clay if necessary.
yup you could go
1wash with NXT wash
2clay
3wash with NXt Wash again
4. Dry the car
5. Deep crystal step #1
6.Deep Crystal Step #2
7. I guess you use PBs stuff which i am not familiar with
or you could do a 1 step like Meguiar's colourX or A12/Cleaner Wax
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I have never used a clay bar on my current car or any previous cars, only because I never knew about it. Anyway, I just bought a brand new car and have had it for a week. I just washed it, polished it, then waxed it today. My question is, since it's a new car is it necessary to use a clay bar on it yet? And if not, how long would you wait until you clayed a new car?
You COULD clay the car -- but yeah, if time and effort are important, then you could get away with it. If you've been driving it only a few weeks, very little grime/particles should be in the paint and clearcoat.
But seal it up right away. The longer you go, the more you want to clay the car.
Remember: claying a new car is pretty easy. You're not gonna pick up lots of dirt and tar. When I clayed my car when it was new, took like 30 minutes, tops. Today, it takes me well over an hour.
In short, it's not NECESSARY but it won't hurt. But the important thing is to get some sealant layers on the car.
Also, if you use KLASSE AIO that would do alot of the cleaning action that claying would do. So use AIO if you don't clay.
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In short, it's not NECESSARY but it won't hurt. But the important thing is to get some sealant layers on the car.
Also, if you use KLASSE AIO that would do alot of the cleaning action that claying would do. So use AIO if you don't clay.
I disagree with these 2 statements. Claying a new car is very important so the 'stuff' on the paint from rail dust and etc. needs to come off before it causes damage to the paint.
I don't think that any product, other than clay, does the same cleaning action of it. AIO won't pick up the contaniments that will damage the paint in the future. I clay everything that I work on, regardless if they want me to because it leaves the paint smooth and clean.
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I clay everything that I work on, regardless if they want me to because it leaves the paint smooth and clean.
Agreed. For the short time it takes and the minimal amount of effort involved, I wouldn't skip it.
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Agreed. For the short time it takes and the minimal amount of effort involved, I wouldn't skip it.
I'll be doing my first clay job on my 5 week old VW GTI-Red-----it's sounds like it's well worth it, even though the paint "looks" pristine. I'm not gonna skimp to save an hour. I haven't decided if I'm going to use Klasse AIO after the clay, or PB PWC Blue. Same for the sealant----can't decide if I'll use Klasse sealant or PB EX.
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Poorboy’s has made a name around the show circuit for fantastic products at great prices! Its ever-growing popularity is due to word-of-mouth testimonies from novice detailers through auto enthusiasts about the brilliant results no matter what your level of expertise. You’re going to love Poorboy’s!
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