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		<title><![CDATA[DetailCity.org - Auto Detailing & Car Detailing Forum - Auto Detailing 101]]></title>
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		<description><![CDATA[Whether you are a pro detailer or a do-it-ourself car owner, this is the place to learn all about auto detailing. From interior and exterior care, wheels and tires and more, it's all covered in Auto Detailing 101.]]></description>
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		<lastBuildDate>Mon, 06 Sep 2010 08:14:27 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[DetailCity.org - Auto Detailing & Car Detailing Forum - Auto Detailing 101]]></title>
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			<title>Remove polish/wax with MF bonnet or by hand</title>
			<link>http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/29570-remove-polish-wax-mf-bonnet-hand.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 06 Sep 2010 02:27:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Wondering which is better, to remove polish/wax by hand or with MF bonnet? how do you get your car ready for waxing?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Wondering which is better, to remove polish/wax by hand or with MF bonnet? how do you get your car ready for waxing?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/">Auto Detailing 101</category>
			<dc:creator>5CCG</dc:creator>
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			<title>Lugnut hole water.</title>
			<link>http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/29561-lugnut-hole-water.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 03 Sep 2010 23:21:09 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[How do I get the water out of my lugnut holes on my new chromie wheels?  I'm trying to wax the wheels and no matter how much I try to mop out the water with a rag, the damn stuff runs down my new wax. 
 
The best Idea would seem to be to blast it out with compressed air but I don't have any in my...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>How do I get the water out of my lugnut holes on my new chromie wheels?  I'm trying to wax the wheels and no matter how much I try to mop out the water with a rag, the damn stuff runs down my new wax.<br />
<br />
The best Idea would seem to be to blast it out with compressed air but I don't have any in my driveway.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/">Auto Detailing 101</category>
			<dc:creator>Mike T.</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Top coating PB EX-P</title>
			<link>http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/29554-top-coating-pb-ex-p.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 02 Sep 2010 22:34:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Just wondering about top coating Poorboys EX-P I will be getting some currently have Griot's best of show, Meg's NXT, Swissvax Saphir what would be best. Havent used EX-P yet Sweet Gum trees ate thruogh Griots sealer and Best of show wax as top. Thank you. 
  
Have I mentioned I HATE SWEET GUM...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Just wondering about top coating Poorboys EX-P I will be getting some currently have Griot's best of show, Meg's NXT, Swissvax Saphir what would be best. Havent used EX-P yet Sweet Gum trees ate thruogh Griots sealer and Best of show wax as top. Thank you.<br />
 <br />
Have I mentioned I HATE SWEET GUM TREES!!:mad:</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/">Auto Detailing 101</category>
			<dc:creator>Concours.John</dc:creator>
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			<title>Removing Clear Coat From Aluminum</title>
			<link>http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/29553-removing-clear-coat-aluminum.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 02 Sep 2010 20:27:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm wondering if anyone has removed clear coat from Aluminum? 
 
 
I was working on a older Harley that had parts where the clear had come off and other parts where it wasn't 
 
 
I was able to remove quite a bit of it, threw polishing with a cotton bob and wool pad but that was very slow, there...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm wondering if anyone has removed clear coat from Aluminum?<br />
<br />
<br />
I was working on a older Harley that had parts where the clear had come off and other parts where it wasn't<br />
<br />
<br />
I was able to remove quite a bit of it, threw polishing with a cotton bob and wool pad but that was very slow, there has to be an easier method<br />
<br />
I did try some Acetone and Lacquer thinner on a spot to see how it would work and that was no use.<br />
<br />
Anyone?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/">Auto Detailing 101</category>
			<dc:creator>Beemerboy</dc:creator>
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			<title>Can I polish headlights with what I have on hand?</title>
			<link>http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/29548-can-i-polish-headlights-what-i-have-hand.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 02 Sep 2010 13:46:24 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I realize this is discussed often, but in my searching I didn't see anything pertaining to the actual products that I have on hand. Both of my cars' headlights could use some touch-up. Even though one is a 2002, and the other a 2005, neither is very bad. Not yellowed, and still transparent. Just...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I realize this is discussed often, but in my searching I didn't see anything pertaining to the actual products that I have on hand. Both of my cars' headlights could use some touch-up. Even though one is a 2002, and the other a 2005, neither is very bad. Not yellowed, and still transparent. Just showing the accumulation of little pitting/hazing from grit and bugs over the years.<br />
<br />
I would like to know if I can use my PC, M105/M205, and LC pads to accomplish this. And if so, suggested product/pad combos and order of process. And would my PB's EX be sufficient, or is a more permanent plastic protected or even the urethane/mineral oil method required? I'm hoping to get the lights looking new again without spending money, if possible.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/">Auto Detailing 101</category>
			<dc:creator>Deutsch Marques</dc:creator>
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			<title>Need some help....Lexus ES300 Paint</title>
			<link>http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/29543-need-some-help-lexus-es300-paint.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Sep 2010 19:28:05 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[My mom got a '96 ES300 about 4 years ago. Has accumulated tree sap and other cr*p over the years. The sap is sometimes (if we can't get the time) left on the car for quite a bit of time. It's gotten pretty bad and now there is little tiny white spots all over the hood, roof and parts of the driver...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My mom got a '96 ES300 about 4 years ago. Has accumulated tree sap and other cr*p over the years. The sap is sometimes (if we can't get the time) left on the car for quite a bit of time. It's gotten pretty bad and now there is little tiny white spots all over the hood, roof and parts of the driver side. I use Turtle Wax ICE Wash soap, Clay Bar Kit &amp; Mother's Paste Carnauba Wax. <br />
<br />
The clay seems to take of surface contaminants VERY well. The car is smooth as glass after that. But the spots are still laughing at me.....;)<br />
Any idea what I can do to get rid of them? We don't want to pay someone to do it (unless we have to) and we don't want to waste money buying more stuff to try. I regret leaving the sap too long but with my schedule during the day I can't get it. If it can help &quot;diagnose&quot; the treatment, I can take a picture tonight and post it or maybe someone has a picture of it. The car is black with silver along the bottom.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/">Auto Detailing 101</category>
			<dc:creator>pfcperry17</dc:creator>
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			<title>What am I doing Wrong?</title>
			<link>http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/29536-what-am-i-doing-wrong.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 31 Aug 2010 22:43:49 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Ok, today we got a 2004 p71 police interceptor and we were to perform a full correction. Well we are not getting good results and I need help. We are using m105 on foamed wool pad, menz 203 on yellow/orange, and 106fa on black. We use this combination all the time on all different cars and get...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Ok, today we got a 2004 p71 police interceptor and we were to perform a full correction. Well we are not getting good results and I need help. We are using m105 on foamed wool pad, menz 203 on yellow/orange, and 106fa on black. We use this combination all the time on all different cars and get great results. For some reason 203 wasn't rubbing off as usual, it was really hard to rub off. Also, I could not get rid of the holograms any were, there were a ton when the car arrived and we greatly improved everything but the holograms would not go away. We have the car all day tomorrow so I'm not too worried. <br />
<br />
Before:<br />
<br />
<img src="http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af189/M3Carbon/photoJPG.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
After:<br />
<br />
<img src="http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af189/M3Carbon/photo-1JPG.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
<br />
Any suggestions? <br />
<br />
Thanks, Connor</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/">Auto Detailing 101</category>
			<dc:creator>VarsityDetail</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Taping Might Be Necessary at Times</title>
			<link>http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/29525-taping-might-necessary-times.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 30 Aug 2010 14:25:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I was working on a PT Cruiser yesterday, while using the rotary I hit the plastic coated chrome trim and burned the plastic in a small area. I've never had that happen, so it took me by surprise.  
 
I was able to get the burned part off but you could still see the area. I pointed it out to the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I was working on a PT Cruiser yesterday, while using the rotary I hit the plastic coated chrome trim and burned the plastic in a small area. I've never had that happen, so it took me by surprise. <br />
<br />
I was able to get the burned part off but you could still see the area. I pointed it out to the customer and offered to get a replacement but he was cool with it. <br />
<br />
I rarely tape anything off I may have to rethink that.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/">Auto Detailing 101</category>
			<dc:creator>Beemerboy</dc:creator>
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			<title><![CDATA[Natty's Red or Blue on Metallic]]></title>
			<link>http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/29498-nattys-red-blue-metallic.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 22 Aug 2010 20:58:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I need opinions on whether Natty's Blue or Red  would best hi-lite the  metallic flake on my 2 Volvo's. 1 with  black metallic  and  one graphite gray metallic. I have read  the blue is best suited for dark colors but I was curious about the  metallic paints and the difference in how red and blue...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I need opinions on whether Natty's Blue or Red  would best hi-lite the  metallic flake on my 2 Volvo's. 1 with  black metallic  and  one graphite gray metallic. I have read  the blue is best suited for dark colors but I was curious about the  metallic paints and the difference in how red and blue will finish out. I  am using Autoglym HD wax on both cars and I am happy with the deep wet gloss it  provides but I would like to try one of Natty's waxes for comparison.<br />
 <br />
Thanks,<br />
 <br />
Paul</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/">Auto Detailing 101</category>
			<dc:creator>PFix</dc:creator>
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			<title>Local Harley Shop</title>
			<link>http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/29482-local-harley-shop.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Aug 2010 15:14:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a real high end independent HD shop close by me. All the riders that I know use this guy for work and parts. Two weeks ago I stopped in with my biz card and talked to the gal at the front desk. She didn't seem that excited about my offerings,but said that she would pass my card to the owner....]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a real high end independent HD shop close by me. All the riders that I know use this guy for work and parts. Two weeks ago I stopped in with my biz card and talked to the gal at the front desk. She didn't seem that excited about my offerings,but said that she would pass my card to the owner.<br />
<br />
Yesterday he called and asked if I could do two bikes, I'm headed over there this AM to look at what needs to be done and give an estimate.<br />
<br />
It pays to put yourself out there.:bigups</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/">Auto Detailing 101</category>
			<dc:creator>Beemerboy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/29482-local-harley-shop.html</guid>
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			<title>Dry Steam Vapor machine question...</title>
			<link>http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/29478-dry-steam-vapor-machine-question.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Aug 2010 17:55:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have an opporunity to purchse a new VAPOR BLITZ II dry steam vapor machine for a song and a dance....but before I hand over the greenbacks I would like some opinions. 
  
The unit is a brand new "out of the box" unit that has been on display...has a couple cosmetic scratches...but is in 100%...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have an opporunity to purchse a new VAPOR BLITZ II dry steam vapor machine for a song and a dance....but before I hand over the greenbacks I would like some opinions.<br />
 <br />
The unit is a brand new &quot;out of the box&quot; unit that has been on display...has a couple cosmetic scratches...but is in 100% perfect working condition.  <br />
 <br />
Here are some specs:<br />
 <ul><li><b>Controls</b> 12 volt; Adjusted electronically at handle</li>
<li><b>Voltage</b> 115V (50 / 60Hz) and 220V (50 / 60Hz) Available</li>
<li><b>Power</b> 1700 Watts</li>
<li><b>Current Draw</b> 14.7 amps</li>
<li><b>Shipping Weight</b> 30 pounds</li>
<li><b>Boiler Capacity</b> 2.64 qt.</li>
<li><b>Internal Temp</b> 295° F</li>
<li><b>Temp at Tip</b> 205° - 220° F</li>
<li><b>Max PSI</b> 65 psi</li>
<li><b>Nominal Constant PSI</b> 47</li>
<li><b>Agency Listings</b> UL; ETL; Tüv; GS, CUL (all major agencies)</li>
<li><b>Hose Length</b> 10 ft.</li>
</ul>more info here: <a href="http://www.amerivap.com/Prod-20-1-14-2/AmeriVap_Vapor_Blitz_II.htm" target="_blank">AmeriVap | Blitz II Commercial Cleaning Systems using Dry Steam Vapor</a><br />
 <br />
 <br />
From internet searching..the unit retails from $1400-1700....I can pick this unit up for around $500 cash....but if some of you more experienced detailers have better reccomendations for a different brand...I'm all ears!! I hate to spend 500 on a unit that would not be the right choice for auto detailing.<br />
 <br />
Any input would be appreciated!<br />
 <br />
Tom</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/">Auto Detailing 101</category>
			<dc:creator>Premiere Auto</dc:creator>
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			<title>One Two Punch</title>
			<link>http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/29475-one-two-punch.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Aug 2010 02:41:33 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Guys I am looking for a 1-2 punch to work on some cars. I need something that will take out 95% of swirls and defects and then a follow up polish that will restore that deep shine. Am I dreaming?? I have heard some good things about Meguairs 105 and 205. I will be using a porter cable da polisher....</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Guys I am looking for a 1-2 punch to work on some cars. I need something that will take out 95% of swirls and defects and then a follow up polish that will restore that deep shine. Am I dreaming?? I have heard some good things about Meguairs 105 and 205. I will be using a porter cable da polisher. I have some 6&quot; LC Orange/White/Black pads. I also have the 4&quot; spot buff white and yellow pad.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/">Auto Detailing 101</category>
			<dc:creator>00GREENMACHINE</dc:creator>
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			<title>De- Badging a Truck</title>
			<link>http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/29474-de-badging-truck.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Aug 2010 00:08:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Today I had a brand new 4x4 to clean its one that I did a full detail on some weeks back...pic attacked for reference 
 
 
The guy wanted all the glued on letter removed the Chevy emblem on the tail gate and the 4x4 sticker. 
 
 
The letters I had off in 10 minutes using fishing line and the sea...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Today I had a brand new 4x4 to clean its one that I did a full detail on some weeks back...pic attacked for reference<br />
<br />
<br />
The guy wanted all the glued on letter removed the Chevy emblem on the tail gate and the 4x4 sticker.<br />
<br />
<br />
The letters I had off in 10 minutes using fishing line and the sea saw method...the stickers pulled off with the edge of my finger nail and lifted pretty quick<br />
<br />
<br />
Now for the glue that was left on...mother of Jesus that was STUCK on the paint.<br />
<br />
<br />
I used my heat gun to soften the letters part, and with a good plastic scrapper had decent results, then I used mineral spirits, WD40 and Goo Gone, all of which worked OK but took for ever to get all of it off<br />
<br />
The biggest problem was the Chevy emblem on the tail gate...the rubber foamy glue sticker that was mounted to the gate, then the emblem is attached to that was really hard...I ended up using WD40 and the plastic scraper and my finger nail to finially get it off.  All in all it took almost 2 hours start to finish...<br />
<br />
One thing that I did learn and thank god I was watching, is that a heat gun can yellow the clear on the paint..on the tail gate I started to notice this hue around the letters so I backed off and finished cold with WD 40...after polishing with the rotary it came back out:surrender<br />
<br />
<br />
Question who has a better method for removing the glue than what I did?</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/">Auto Detailing 101</category>
			<dc:creator>Beemerboy</dc:creator>
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			<title>Practice Car #3</title>
			<link>http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/29462-practice-car-3-a.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Aug 2010 22:52:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Victim # 3 was my daughters Mustang. The process was: Wash, Clay, M105 orange, M205 White, Menzerna PO85RD black, Menzerna PO85RD yellow, DG-105 hand apply, buff with microfiber bonnet. and 7 hours later.... 
Image: http://photogameday.com/images/mustang-1.jpg  
Image:...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Victim # 3 was my daughters Mustang. The process was: Wash, Clay, M105 orange, M205 White, Menzerna PO85RD black, Menzerna PO85RD yellow, DG-105 hand apply, buff with microfiber bonnet. and 7 hours later....<br />
<img src="http://photogameday.com/images/mustang-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<img src="http://photogameday.com/images/mustang-2.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<img src="http://photogameday.com/images/mustang-3.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<img src="http://photogameday.com/images/mustang-4.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
Next up, The Vette.....</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/">Auto Detailing 101</category>
			<dc:creator>AustinVette</dc:creator>
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			<title><![CDATA[Confused: QD+, S&W, S&G???]]></title>
			<link>http://www.detailcity.org/forums/auto-detailing-101/29454-confused-qd-s-w-s-g.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Aug 2010 20:04:18 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Sorry if this is a basic question, but I've been reading this forum for a while now, as well as reading the product information found on autogeek, but I am still confused on which of these products I should purchase. 
 
I live in California and typically use a spray and wipe type product daily to...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Sorry if this is a basic question, but I've been reading this forum for a while now, as well as reading the product information found on autogeek, but I am still confused on which of these products I should purchase.<br />
<br />
I live in California and typically use a spray and wipe type product daily to remove light dust and all that.  My question really revolves around which PB product would best suit my needs.<br />
<br />
Here's my understanding, any corrections would be helpful.<br />
<br />
PB Spray and Wipe (S&amp;W): Also known as Poorboys Waterless Wash.  This product would be good if I wiped down my car every few days, or left it out to collect dew one night.<br />
<br />
PB Spray and Gloss (S&amp;G): This product would be good for daily use to remove the light road dust collected on my way to and from work (25 miles round trip).  It will add some gloss to to coat as well.<br />
<br />
PB Quick Detailer Plus (QD+): A good product to use AFTER either of the above mentioned products to enhance the depth of the gloss.<br />
<br />
I have used QD+ in the past and was using it daily as a &quot;spray and wipe&quot; product to remove light road dust.  Seems to work fine, but I want to make sure I'm using the right tools for the job.<br />
<br />
Any help is appreciated!!<br />
<br />
Thanks!:)</div>

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